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The French champagne house serves as a fine introduction to the world of bubbles
A review of Paul Georg champagne.
Jean-Philippe Moulin could have simply retired in 2007 when he stepped down as head winemaker at Champagne Ruinart, champagne’s oldest House. Instead he joined Champagne Paul Goerg as managing director and head winemaker, choosing to learn about champagne from the point of view of the growers. Paul Goerg is an association of seven families with more than 100 relatives who collectively own and farm nearly 300 acres of Premier and Grand Cru vineyards in the area known as the Côte des Blancs. Freed from vying with competitors to purchase the best grapes, Jean-Philippe’s work now begins with cultivating exceptional quality fruit. Subsequently, he manages each detail of the champagne-making process from pressing, to vinification, blending, and disgorgement.
The families behind Paul Goerg began collaborating in the 1950s, providing fresh-pressed chardonnay to well established Houses such as Moët & Chandon, Pol Roger, and Charles Heidsieck for use in their blends. In 1984, the families set out to build their own line of champagnes named for Paul Goerg, the renowned négociant and mayor of the village of Vertus, remembered for his passionate commitment to preserving the quality of the local vineyards.
The Paul Goerg Blanc de Blancs Brut is an ideal place to begin to understand champagne, not just as a party drink, but as a fine wine and aesthetic experience. The champagne is 100 percent chardonnay sourced from Premier Cru vineyards at the base of the Montagne de Reims. There, the south-facing slopes provide rich supple wines and the east-facing slopes yield wines that are firmer and more mineral driven. Made with 40 percent reserve wine and aged for more than three years before being released, the champagne has fine bubbles, delicate citrus and acacia aromas, and a long creamy finish. Serve it as an aperitif or with seafood, sushi, or sole meuniér.
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NV Paul Goerg Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut
8/7/2020 - poste244 Likes this wine: 90 Points
Bouteille achetée en 2017.
Un Champagne très vineux. De couleur dorée assez foncée. En donne beaucoup au nez et en bouche. Bien typé Chardonnay. Effervescence moyenne et bulles plutôt grosses. Un brin d'amertume en finale. Pas le plus délicat et raffiné, mais j'aime bien ce style tout de même, surtout avec le repas.
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12/4/2019 - wineismylife wrote: 91 Points
Light yellow color in the glass, clear looking throughout with tiny, steady beading. nose of apricot, yellow pear and sea spray. Flavors of yellow apple, yellow pear and minerals. Bright acidity, full bodied. Drink or hold.
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8/14/2017 - phil the agony wrote: 90 Points
Un champagne qui est bon mais quand même générique.
Une bulle relativement fine.
Des arômes de pomme, poire et de citron.
Correct pour le prix.
Quand même très bien avec les sushis.
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8/1/2017 - Peter-Luke Likes this wine: 90 Points
Bien qu'on compte un taux de sucre relativement élevé, l'acidité balance très bien ce champagne. Une belle amplitude et avec de la longueur. Parfait pour un repas (sushi ou tartare).
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5/28/2017 - Momus99 wrote: 88 Points
Well-fashioned but not my dish of tea when it comes to bubbly. Just a bit too austere and angular. Maybe related to low dosage? Who knows. But doesn't have the softness and yeasty notes that I prefer with Champers and wouldn't buy again.
Wine of the Week: Paul Goerg Champagne, Premier Cru, Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
In the French wine region of Champagne, Blanc de Blancs means that the wine is made only from chardonnay grapes. Most Champagnes have red grapes (pinot noir and-or pinot meunier) in the cuvée, or blend, to contribute weight and structure. This Blanc de Blancs is light and elegant, with delicate aromas of citrus, pear and apple mingling with notes of freshly baked, yeasty brioche.
In the mouth, the thrill of fine bubbles tickles the tongue. Creamy, citrusy white peach flavors are electrified by nervy acidity. It’s delightfully celebratory and a great value Premier Cru wine for holiday entertaining. Serve it as an aperitif with salted potato chips or to balance the richness of lobster.
Paul Goerg is made by a cooperative winery that was established in the mid-1900s around the town of Vertus. This is an area particularly suited for growing high-quality chardonnay many of the vineyards are of Premier Cru or Grand Cru status. Paul Goerg was a former mayor and avid supporter of the local winegrowers in the mid-1800s.
2002 Paul Goerg Champagne Premier Cru Brut
8/1/2020 - forceberry wrote: 93 Points
I needed to open this bottle after tasting the 2005 vintage, which felt quite disappointing and already going downhill. There's no indication of bottling or disgorgement date, but the wine has been in my cellar since early 2013, so probably the wine is disgorged around 2012? 12% alcohol.
Still surprisingly youthful pale-green color. Quite rich, fine-tuned and wonderfully evolved yet not particularly aged nose with aromas of sweet cream and vanilla custard typical of a developed Blanc de Blancs, some autolytic brioche, light fruity notes of Golden Delicious apple, a little bit of ripe yellow fruit, a hint of caramel and a touch of chalky minerality. This is a completely different wine from the dull and woolly 2005 vintage. The wine feels light-to-medium-bodied, dry and enjoyably acid-driven on the palate with flavors of ripe golden apples, some creamy custard notes, a little bit of autolytic brioche, light wizened white fruit notes, a hint of chalky minerality and a touch of caramel. The high acidity keeps the wine wonderfully fresh, precise and structured without making it feel too lean or tightly-knit. The mousse feels ample and silky smooth. The finish is mineral, refreshing and mouth-cleansing with quite long flavors of ripe Golden Delicious apple, some chalky bitter notes, a little bit of cooked cream, light sweet notes of wizened white fruit and a hint of steely minerality.
A wonderfully fresh, clean and still surprisingly youthful Blanc de Blancs - especially how I've heard many 2002's starting to go downhill despite it being such a lauded vintage. This wine has dropped the tightly-knit leanness and linear flavor profile of a young Blanc de Blancs, but hasn't taken on the rich, toasty and nutty notes of an aged Blanc de Blancs yet. As a whole, this is in a very enjoyable shape right now and has entered its drinking window, but most likely the wine will continue to improve for years more. I can imagine this won't reach its peak at least within the next 10 years. A very positive surprise after the disappointing 2005. Priced according to its quality at 48,90€.
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7/22/2018 - thewiz Does not like this wine: 88 Points
(Disgorged in 2016, 100% Chardonnay from Vertus near Le Mesnil-sur-Oger)
Yellow colour with a stream of fine bubbles and with a maturing nose showing grass and mint before a hint of butterscotch reveals itself. Palate shows a coarseness in the more bittersweet lime acidity that dominates the long lasting finish. With some time in the glass it feels better showing some creaminess and yellow apples, but there’s still a disturbing herbal element layer over everything that won’t go away.. Such a shame!
(Probably best 2017-2027)
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4/25/2011 - avp wrote:
Starts out with dried fruit nose: apple, apricot even slight raisiny notes. Freshens up with time though. Some lemon, nuts, flint and seashells.
Dry, medium bodied and refreshing palate with lean soft moussé. Chardonnay fruit, lemon, grapefruit, slight herbs, quinine and chalky minerality. Balanced aftertaste with decent length and slight toffee character.
Rather nice refreshing stuff - though took quite some time to find balance. Some sulfur that toned down. Good backbone.
Paul Goerg NV Blanc de Blancs Brut Chardonnay (Champagne)
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Situated in the Côte des Blancs, this cooperative specializes in Chardonnay-based Champagnes. This wine, their main cuvée, is soft, creamy and fruity. Touches of minerality show only lightly through the crisp fruitiness and dry aftertaste. Drink now. Roger VossHow We Blind Taste
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5-8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context&mdashvintage, variety or appellation&mdashbut never the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
FP11: Mario Rinaldi of Champagne Paul Goerg
Mark and I had the wonderful opportunity to savor a tasting dinner at Restaurant Bruno Jamais in NYC last week featuring the Champagnes of Paul Goerg. Join us as we speak with Mario Rinaldi, Goerg’s eloquent ambassador, about the philosophy behind this very special house of bubbly. It is quickly becoming one of my favorites, and we discovered it thanks to our dear friend Jean-Louis Gerin.
Theme Music: “New York Cheesecake” by Adam Buker and “Grapes” by Evan Stone
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Absolu Extra Brut NV (10's)
The Tb points given to this wine are the world’s most valid and most up-to-date evaluation of the quality of the wine. Tastingbook points are formed by the Tastingbook algorithm which takes into account the wine ratings of the world's 50 best-known professional wine critics, wine ratings by thousands of tastingbook’s professionals and users, the generally recognised vintage quality and reputation of the vineyard and winery. Wine needs at least five professional ratings to get the Tb score. Tastingbook.com is the world's largest wine information service which is an unbiased, non-commercial and free for everyone.
ABSOLU is the emblematic cuvée of PAUL GOERG
The absence of dosage and the 100% Chardonnay blend allows Vertus&lsquo terroirs to shine through. The Champagne PAUL GOERG ABSOLU cuvée is first and foremost a pure Chardonnay, which is rare for a non-dosed cuvée. This exceptional Champagne is the result of a long period of ageing in our cellars, giving it its silky texture, combined to freshness and subtle minerality-characteristic of great Chardonnays.
This Extra Brut cuvée is a very pure, subtle and delicate wine perfect for experienced Champagne lovers. This cuvée was crafted from a blend of Chardonnays coming from various parcels of Vertus. This Cuvée is based on the 2005 harvest even though several years form the blend.
PAUL GOERG ABSOLU is ideal as a high-class aperitif, with a starter of fine seafood or raw fish. So one could marvel at its fine bubbles and its understated natural balance . You will not be indifferent to this Champagne which expresses all the richness of the prestigious Côte de Blancs. Experience the emotion that only great Champagnes can arouse!
Wine of the Week: Champagne Paul Goerg Blanc de Blancs
This Champagne usually sells for more than $60 per bottle, or $30 for the halves and I immediately knew that not only did I have what is easily the deal of the year for my column, but probably the greatest recommendation for a buy-it-by-the-case-while-it-lasts kind of wine so far in 2015.
Wine: Champagne Paul Goerg Blanc de Blancs
Region: Vertus, Champagne, France
Price: $9.99 per half-bottle (375 millileters)
Availability: Lee&rsquos Discount Liquor
In the glass: Paul Goerg Champagne is a bright citrine-yellow color with a clean, clear appearance showing microbubbles effervescing from the core going out into a glass-clear rim definition with light to medium viscosity.
On the nose: It is classic at first, with a plethora of mixed white fruits, dominated by crispy apple slices, crushed red currants, freshly baked pastry, freshly mowed straw, nuttiness like walnuts with shells and finally leavened dough over chalky minerals.
On the palate: It has a nicely creamy texture, before revealing the fresh, zippy citrus character of the fruit and the nuts, almond biscotti, yeast residue, then lovely balance between white fruit and acidity right through to the lingering, fresh finish.
Odds and ends: This was one of those almost too-good-to-be-true stories, where I saw a stack of cases of this Champagne sitting toward the back of the store at a giant warehouse location of Lee&rsquos Discount Liquor. I noticed that these were Paul Goerg Champagnes, coming from one of my favorite little grower houses. And it was blanc de blancs, which means it is made from 100 percent chardonnay and highly desirable.
Paul Goerg likes to let his Champagnes sit for more than three years &ldquoon the lees&rdquo (no pun intended), which means that the liquid rests in bottles upside- down before being disgorged. The solids that have formed near the cap are flash frozen and expelled before the corks with the famous cage are applied on the bottles.
When I was told the price was $9.99 I did a double take this usually sells for more than $60 per bottle, or $30 for the halves. I immediately knew I had probably the greatest recommendation for a buy-it-by-the-case-while-it-lasts wine so far in 2015.
Champagne is the most versatile of beverages. These halves are splendid to crack open and share, but they can also be enjoyed with salty snacks, especially Marcona almonds.
I&rsquod also recommend you attend the Wine Spectator Grand Tour at The Mirage on Saturday night, where you can taste some amazing wines and Champagnes. It will cost you far less than boxing tickets.
Champagne: How Low Can You Go?
FOR lacy, effervescent moments, prosecco has its special place. Sparkling Vouvray is certainly distinguished, and I recently enjoyed a superb crémant dɺlsace from Barmès-Buecher. I'm always happy with a bottle of Schramsberg, Iron Horse or Roederer Estate from California, less so with fizzy wine in a pink can like Sofia Mini blanc de blancs, though I don't meet Niebaum-Coppola's target audience of young women for that product.
But when talking about sparkling wine, let's be honest: There is Champagne and there is everything else. The others are good, but they're not Champagne.
Which raises the question, is Champagne always Champagne?
No wine region in the world has done a better job than Champagne of creating a mystique about itself. Whether Bordeaux, Burgundy, Napa or Tuscany, consumers are aware of an upper echelon of high-quality wines, separated from a larger pool of mediocrity. But Champagne? The mere mention of the word connotes joy and celebration. Most people need only to know that they are drinking Champagne to be happy. Slightly more discerning types prefer one brand to another, possibly -- to be cynical about it -- because of the superior marketing of that particular brand.
The truth is that in Champagne, as in every other wine region in the world, the wine made by producers who are passionate, committed and skilled can be transcendent. As for the others, well, the best thing those bottles have going for them is the name Champagne on their labels. The trick, obviously, is separating the good stuff from the bad.
In quest of a few good bottles, the Dining section's wine panel recently tasted 25 Champagnes at the lowest price level, which nowadays can rise up to $30. Contrary to the blithe image that a tasting like this may bring to mind, it was no easy task. Champagne, especially cheap Champagne, can be harsh and acidic, and with 25 glasses before you, before long the tongue seems to swell and the inside of the mouth feels rasped by steel wool. Nonetheless, we were relieved and happy to find some Champagnes that we could recommend enthusiastically.
Why relieved? Because this category of Champagne is no sure thing. Producers tend to baby their more expensive vintage Champagnes. Those wines receive the best grapes, grown in the best sites, and in the cellar these bottles are attended to like favored children. The basic Champagnes, for the most part, receive far less consideration and consume fewer resources. They are made from purchased grapes, or often enough from wines that have been purchased, already made. The best wines are not likely to go into the blend that will result in the final nonvintage product, which can differ from year to year depending on which wines are available. These are cash-cow Champagnes, intended to maintain a steady flow of income.
Of course, some Champagne houses are far more serious than others about their basic bottlings. Brands like Bollinger, Louis Roederer and Billecart-Salmon are just a few of the bigger houses that make superb nonvintage Champagnes, and many other labels do, too. Smaller houses like Gosset, Alfred Gratien and Bruno Paillard also make excellent nonvintage Champagnes. But you are not likely to find any of these bottles for $30 and under, certainly not anymore.
That leaves an assortment of brand names -- some familiar, some not -- along with cooperative brands, which buy and blend the grapes for a number of growers, and a few small growers who produce Champagnes from their own grapes. Alas, most in that last, highly interesting category don't quite meet the $30 cutoff.
In the Champagnes we tasted, I was first of all looking for a sense of liveliness and vivacity, the sort of taut energy that keeps you refreshed and coming back for more. Our favorite wines had that quality, and even a modicum of complexity, though intense minerality and the sort of baked bread and occasional berry flavors that you find in better bottles were hard to come by, as was the exquisite texture of a fine Champagne.
"I think you have to go to the next level for that," said Evan Spingarn, a wine salesman and an author of "The Ultimate Wine Lover's Guide 2006" (Sterling Publishing), who joined Florence Fabricant and me on the panel, along with our second guest, Rebecca Foster, the wine director at Cookshop, a new restaurant in Chelsea.
The tasting reminded Ms. Foster of how difficult it is to grow grapes in Champagne, which is the northernmost of any fine-wine region. Historically, growers struggle each year to ripen their grapes sufficiently in the region's chill, and, naturally, grapes from the best plots -- those designated premier cru and grand cru -- are generally reserved for the better and more expensive Champagnes. "This tells you they have those designations for a reason," Ms. Foster said.
Yet, our No. 2 wine, the Louis de Sacy Brut, full-bodied and rich with a creamy texture and dry, toasty flavors, was labeled a grand cru, highly unusual for a $27 bottle. (This may have been shopper's luck. The importer says the price is scheduled to rise soon.) The other wines we tasted, like our No. 1, the Lanson Black Label, had no such designation. Nonetheless, I felt the Lanson was the classiest of our tasting, lively with a juicy, lip-smacking acidity, and mineral and citrus flavors. If it had a bare hint of sweetness, the overall sensation was dry because it was so well balanced by the acidity.
In some of the other bottles, a sense of sweetness was apparent, too. Whether this was intentional or not is hard to say. Some Champagnes are meant to be a little sweet. Moët & Chandon's White Star is a rich, full-bodied Champagne that is very popular in the United States. It is specially formulated for the American market, which is thought to prefer some sweetness, and is labeled Extra Dry, which paradoxically is a step sweeter than brut. We judged it too sweet for our tastes. Similarly a bottle of Heidsieck & Company Monopole Extra Dry was somewhat sweet and didn't make our list.
Does this mean the two are bad Champagnes? No. We simply preferred a drier style. A much more serious issue in some of the Champagnes that didn't make our list was the high level of sulfur that had been used as a preservative. Sulfur, in the form of sulfur dioxide, is almost universally used by winemakers at various stages of the production process. But if too much is added, it mars the wine, resulting in an off-putting aroma of burned matchsticks. This made it impossible to enjoy several of our Champagnes.
What to Cook This Week
Sam Sifton has menu suggestions for the coming days. There are thousands of ideas for what to cook waiting for you on New York Times Cooking.
- One of the best things about Melissa Clark’s chile-roasted chicken with honey, lemon and feta is the sweet-and-sour drippings in the pan.
- Yewande Komolafe’s glazed tofu with chile and star anise is a take on the technique behind Sichuan hui guo rou, or twice-cooked pork.
- Mark Bittman’s shrimp burgers are perfect with mayonnaise, mixed with Texas Pete hot sauce and plenty of lime juice.
- This spring-vegetable japchae from Kay Chun is made with the Korean sweet-potato noodles known as glass noodles.
- Millie Peartree’s brown stew chicken is built on a base of store-bought browning sauce, a caramel-hued burnt sugar concoction.
Two of our top 10 were blanc de blancs, which means the wines were made entirely of chardonnay, rather than of the usual blend of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier. These blanc de blancs are not necessarily lighter than conventional Champagnes. Indeed, some can be full bodied. But they often have a creamy texture, surprising complexity and, depending on where the grapes are from, precise mineral flavors. The Paul Goerg, our No. 3 wine, had a toasty quality that we all enjoyed and also a complex combination of floral and fruit flavors.
The other blanc de blancs, from Pierre Gimmonet & Fils, is a different kind of Champagne. It had great mineral flavors as well as apple and herbal aromas that seem more characteristic of conventional wine than of Champagne. That vinous quality is typical of a grower-producer Champagne like this one. It's not a Champagne style that appeals to everybody, but it did to me and the rest of the panel.
Over the last five years I have found Nicolas Feuillatte to be a particularly reliable Champagne, a good value at almost every price level. The brut was full bodied, with lingering flavors and, if not completely dry, was well balanced. It was also the least expensive in the top 10 at $24.
Some well-known names -- Piper-Heidsieck, Pol Roger, Perrier-Jouët and Mumm's -- were among the Champagnes we tasted that did not make our list.
It shows how dicey this category can be. For $10 more, you can buy Champagnes that are not only more reliable, but offer more dimensions of aroma, flavor and texture.
If you choose wisely, at $30 and under, you can certainly find satisfying bottles. But too often, the result is Champagne on the label, but less than you hope for in the bottle.
Tasting Report: Lively, Energetic and Under $30
Lanson Black Label Brut NV: $28 *** [Rating: Three Stars] Dry and refreshing, with snappy acidity and mineral and citrus flavors. (Importer: Caravelle Wine Selections, Avon, Conn.)
Louis de Sacy Brut Grand Cru NV: $27 *** [Rating: Three Stars] Toasty and full bodied with a creamy texture and persistent flavors. (House of Burgundy, Port Chester, N.Y.)
Paul Goerg Blanc de Blancs NV: $26 *** [Rating: Three Stars] Yeasty, toasty aromas, with persistent, complex floral and fruit flavors. (U.S.A. Wine Imports, New York)
Pierre Gimmonet & Fils Brut Blanc de Blancs NV: $29** 1/2 [Rating: Two and a Half Stars] Unusually complex and persistent flavors of apples, minerals and anise. (Michael Skurnik Wines/Terry Theise Estate Selection, Syosset, N.Y.)
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut NV: $24 ** 1/2 [Rating: Two and a Half Stars] Bright and substantial, with citrus and floral flavors not quite bone dry. (Pasternak Wine Imports, Harrison, N.Y.)
Pannier Brut Sélection NV: $25 ** 1/2 [Rating: Two and a Half Stars] Rich and full bodied, lively and fresh, with yeasty, floral flavors. (Martin Scott Wines, Lake Success, N.Y.)
Pommery Brut Royal NV: $27 ** 1/2 [Rating: Two and a Half Stars] Rich, with mineral aromas and nutlike flavors. (W. J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains)
Jacquart Mosaïque NV: $27 ** [Rating: Two Stars] Toasty caramel aromas with creamy, tropical flavors. (Tri-Vin Imports, Mount Vernon, N.Y.)
Deutz Brut Classic NV: $30 ** [Rating: Two Stars] Straightforward, but lively and refreshing. (Maison Marques & Domaines, Oakland, Calif.)
Charles Lafitte Brut NV: $27 ** [Rating: Two Stars] Full bodied and fruity with intriguing fruit flavors slightly sweet. (Vranken America, New York)
(None) Pass It By * Passable ** Good *** Excellent **** Extraordinary
Ratings reflect the panel's reaction to wines, which were tasted with names concealed. The panelists this week are Eric Asimov Florence Fabricant Evan Spingarn, a wine salesman and an author of "The Ultimate Wine Lover's Guide 2006" (Sterling Publishing) and Rebecca Foster, the wine director at Cookshop. The tasted wines represent a selection generally available in good retail shops and restaurants. Prices are those paid in liquor shops in the New York region.
Tasting Coordinator: Bernard Kirsch
nytimes.com Recent wine columns from The New York Times are online: nytimes.com/wine. This week, members of the panel discuss their favorite Champagnes under $30.
WINES OF THE TIMES Correction: December 21, 2005, Wednesday The Wines of The Times column last Wednesday about Champagne misstated its location in relation to other fine-wine regions. It is the northernmost fine-wine region in France, not the world. The Mosel region in Germany is more northerly.
Champagne Paul Goerg Tasted by Andreas Larsson
For more than two generations, winegrowers have been creating Champagne Paul Goerg’s signature refined variety. The label’s delectable Cuvée Lady new Brut vintage 2005 and Brut blanc de blancs were sampled by 2007 World’s Best Sommaliar Andreas Larsson. Larsson gives favorable and thoughtful notes to both of the champagnes, earning them very esteemed praise.
We are proud that our CEO/ Publisher Grace A. Capobianco was bestowed the title of Dame-Chevalier de l’Ordre for her work in promoting awareness and appreciation of the wines of Champagne in the pages of Downtown Magazine NYC . Offered to her by Mario Rinaldi, U.S. Brand Representative for Champagne Paul Goerg, Betsy Reynard, Brand Ambassador for Chateau Canon and Zack Zahran, General Manager of the Park Lane Hotel.
“Paul Goerg is one of my favorite champagnes,” states Capobianco, “I still enjoy my title ofDame-Chevalier de l’Ordre. I highly recommend that you pick up a bottle for the holidays.”
Watch the video: YMH Coolest Guys (August 2022).